Day 10 Tucumcari NM (112 miles, 3547 feet)

Overnight low in Las Vegas was 23 degrees.  Not sure what that is in Centigrade, but it's gotta be about absolute zero.  By the time we loaded our luggage, it had warmed to a balmy 35 degrees.  I had broken out the leg warmers; I had hoped they were gone for good.  After yesterday's killer ride, I was moving pretty slow.  About two-thirds of the riders had left the hotel before I got on the road.

Today is a route for the navigationally-challenged.  Left out of motel; two miles up the road and another left; then straight.  That's it. 

I've read various ABB blogs about this day's ride for years.  It is supposed to be one of the best rides on the whole trip. I'd say it pretty much lives up to the hype.  And yet it was nothing like I was expecting.  Shortly out of town, you're into vast prairie country.  No trees... just grasslands for miles in all directions.  It is a climb at first; then it levels off after about 20 miles. 

You come around a corner and realize that you've been riding on top of a plateau and the bottom-land opens up beneath you.  It is a killer descent on a smooth road with curves and steep drop-offs on your right.  Unlike the similar descent on Day 4, it is not absolutely freezing and the roads don't have ice.  So, you're able to open it up.  Top speed was 46mph.  I'm still in search of the elusive 50mph.

Before I can get off the plateau, the headwinds start.  The lunch SAG isn't until about 80 miles into the day.  That was a long, long way to lunch with those headwinds.  You've heard me complain about them for the past few days.  I have found websites that give all sorts of metrics on how much power is wasted in headwinds.  But instead of boring you with all that, let me just say that on a day like today, it takes about 30% off of your speed.  So if you would normally be going 18mph, now you're going 12mph.  It really lengthens the day and builds character. 

We also had a pretty rough road surface.  In south Georgia, this would be the road surface used on very secondary roads.  A "chipped seal" is what I believe it is called.  It is a bit like riding over mini-cobblestones.  Tends to jar the rider and slow down the bike.  You could really tell the difference on the few concrete bridges we crossed.  All of a sudden, it would be like you're riding on a cloud; and moving fast.

About five miles from the lunch SAG, the road changed direction and the surface improved considerably.  We now had a tailwind and a smooth ride.  Whoa... what a difference.  I flew into the SAG all smiles and upbeat.  After the SAG, it was a strong crosswind.  In some places, I had to ride with my bike tilted towards the wind to keep from being pushed into the road.  About ten miles from town, the road surface was covered in small gravel (on the shoulder) and the wind was back into my face.

The town of Tucumcari is another small town through which Route 66 passes.  I've seen throughout New Mexico that they are trying to revitalize towns along Route 66 and the road is actually called "Historic Route 66".  Albuquerque had huge Route 66 neon signs that spanned over the road.  Anyway, Tucumcari is a pretty clean place; not prosperous by any means, but tidy.  There is an interesting story on how the town got its name.  The following is from English Mike's blog (Mike rode last year's Fast America Ride) and is used with his permission.

An Indian Chief had a beautiful daughter called Cari. Two young Braves wanted to marry her and the Chief decided that they should fight to the death for her hand in marriage. One was the love of her life, called Tucun (don't know what the other was called, Roy, Adolf) Anyway they had the fight and Tucun was killed. Seeing her one true love dead, Cari killed herself and fell onto the body of Tucun. Hence they called the town Thatdidntgotoowelldiditsville. This was later shortened to Tucuncari. Such a pity he wasn't called Cashun.

I really like this hotel.  It is a Best Western and they had rags (for cleaning the bikes) and a food spread waiting for us.  And it took the woman at the front desk about ten seconds to check me in.  After riding 112 miles, that's what you really want.  Despite all the wind, I made really decent time and arrived here right about 3pm.  What a change from yesterday.  
 
I'm suffering a bit from sensory-overload.  This ride today was truly gorgeous, but I've seen so many great things (especially here in NM) that it is hard to remember them all - let alone describe them.  I was thinking as I was riding today that if I only rode yesterday's or today's ride, I'd be talking about it for years to come.  But when it comes on the tail of eight days of 100+ miles each, it becomes something of a blur.
 
Tomorrow is supposed to be short - only about 100 miles. And we're supposed to have kickin' tailwinds.  I've heard that before.